First time at crack climb mecca - Indian Creek

I don’t post every climbing trip here because sometimes I focus too much on climbing itself and forgot to take pictures. Or I don’t want to post the same locations three times in a row. Or I was just too busy(lazy) to post. I actually climb every week, and mostly sport climbing. I’ve always wanted to go to Indian Creek but I know I can only follow since I have no crack climbing skills. It was raining quite often in October and finally found friends to climb with last week.

Sean got to Creek two months ago and he’s addicted to it.

The first day I was literally pulled up every route like I expected. I had been to Vedauwoo before and my friend Ben nicely and patiently taught me a few techniques. Crack climbing technique is still different based on the size of crack.

Bring your TC pro (La Sportiva climbing shoes) and tons of tape to the Creek!

At Indian Creek it’s rare to see anything below 5.10. My friend Sean put up some 5.8, 5.9 for me to practice and I still struggled big time. But after time, my body gradually learned. I thought the next day I probably will struggle more because I’ll be sore. But I actually did better. Same thing on the third day, and got even better on the fourth day.

I also unexpectedly met Art Center alumni, Kelly Halpin, at the creek.
3 years ago, I reached out to her for my snowboarding project and have been following her ig since then. I've been hugely inspired by her - she's a trail runner sponsored by La Sportiva and all sorts of outdoor brands; climbers, snowboarders, and illustrator. She's also the artist who did the latest creek guidebook cover. Not many people from my school are that active (stress, caffeine and maybe tobacco are everyone’s best friends) . It's really rare to see someone thrive in outdoor space. Watching her cruising up a crack route is so inspiring. One day I’ll be cruising too right?

Scarface 11b

Meagan gears up for Cave route 10d

I didn’t know I’ll get addicted to crack climbing. In the middle of the night I woke up (bc the night was too long) and thought I could lead that 5.9. Then I did it! I freaked out at the thinner part and took on my gears but I’m really stoked I finished it. Thanks my friends put up some 11s and even 12s that I had a chance to try how hard it was for higher grade routes. I honestly feel I’ll lead finger crack 11s earlier than off-width 5.9….

I’m pretty sure I’ll go back soon and will have another post about Indian Creek again, again and again.

Bouldering in flurry - Joe's Valley

I’m getting closer to my dirtbag dream - I quitted my job!

It was not a hard decision. I just didn’t like working there. I never felt clicked to anything anyone. I’ve been debating just quitting and doing something I like such as photography, hiking and climbing. Climbing gives me a sense of progression, satisfaction and a venue to understand myself. It also allows me to expand my friendship circle. I honestly have so many climbing friends that I wouldn’t imagine before.

I’ve been mostly sport climbing and didn’t do much bouldering. I was really scared of outdoor bouldering last year because of top-out and down-climbing. But I can’t avoid it forever and I also need get stronger! Recruited my friends and we headed down to Joe’s Valley on a weekend.

Saturday was a beautiful day. There were lots of people as we expected. Also met people from the same climbing gym, The Front Climbing Club. I actually had been climbing for 3 days so I took my camera, snacks and sketchbook as a backup plan.

Jamie on a V3.

Jamie: “I don’t know what I’m doing”
Andrew: “Climbing… bouldering.”
Me: “People quit their jobs doing this.”
Dan: “There are two examples here (himself and me.)”

Black Sea V8

Black Sea V8

Hapa

V5

Sunday when we woke up it was like 20 degree. Wind was blowing and surprisingly it was snowing! I didn’t wear my socks at night so it was kinda miserable. I wrapped myself with sleeping bag just sitting there didn’t have the courage to go out of the tent.
I’m going back home I think.
It’s too cold. TOO COLD!

We tried to cook breakfast in the tent. My friend Andrew’s stove somehow was not connecting to propane properly and propane diffused. It reached to the fire of my JetBoil and suddenly it was all on fire for a second! No one got hurt but my hair was burnt. We did have tent door open but still not a good idea cooking inside. It was really scary.
After breakfast, we made fire trying to get a bit warmer. That day highest was 40 degree FML.
I really want to go home.
Until 10 o’clock the sun finally came out. The wind gradually calmed down. It was still cold but bearable.

For Emily it was perfect sending temp!

Steal my beaf jerky.

In this trip I didn’t do much only V0, V2, V3 and struggled on V4. (V5 is above the level of struggle.)

The whole day I was just thinking “this is so cold.” Sometimes it was snowing; sometimes it was sunny. Everyone was wearing puffy and only took it off when they bouldered. Put it on right after they fell.

Anyway, it was a good time. I honestly just enjoyed hanging out with friends.

Wild Iris (Wyoming)

If you’re not a climber, you won’t come here. There’s no reason to. And yes I came here for climbing, and only sport climbing. It was a labor day weekend and I took two days off so it became a long weekend. I literally invited every climber friend (well it’s like EVERYONE I know in Salt Lake City), friends invited friends and it became a super fun weekend.

As a photographer, of course I’ll never be in the scene. But basically everyone is here.

We’re a group ranging from 5.10 climbers to 5.12/13a climbers. We had campfire every night, mainly talked about climbing, where to climb, funny climbing experience, and something not so important.

Replenish energy and clipping nails are essential for climbers.

This guy planned on sustain for 3 days on a box of cliff bars (and soup.) During the meantime, I was cooking full meal. I was really minimalist and I gradually transformed to luxury car camping. Why not?

Our crag dog Riley. You’ll see him in my previous article (The Finds, Idaho.)

Surprisingly Riley loved this guy while hating other male human beings.

Emily on Lone Pilgrim 12a.

Greg worked on Poker Face Alice 12b

Spectator

Behind the scene - I bought an ascender before this trip for photography. But I didn’t get a ladder and it made pulling up a big nightmare. It was more tiring than climbing…. It was really fun getting some photos from the top. I also noticed that it got painful after sitting in my harness for a while. I definitely want to do more climbing photography but I also want to climb… it’s a hard choice!

Climbing at the Fins - Idaho

Took a 5-day climbing trip around July 4th holiday with friends - two of them only stayed for a weekend and Emily and I stayed for longer.

Emily's crag dog, Reily, imagined the Fins was his farm and climbers were his sheeps.... he barked at whoever in his sight - he was doing his job! (Emily: you're fired!)

I need to step up my camping meal game. Emily was so well-prepared making delicious healthy dinner. Meantime I was eating dry food or can food.

The Fins- it's the area that you won't find on Google Map. People come here only for climbing. I came to the lower part (Mortal Earth) last year. This time we came to the Head Wall and Discovery Wall.

Head wall- the first wall you'll see when you approach from the top.

Only 4WD can access upper part - it was a steep gravel road. It was pretty chilly at night and in the morning.

I slept in my van and would grab my sleeping pad out of the van lying down under the sun in the morning.

I currently work at Klymit as a designer and upgraded my sleep outside game. I used to use yoga mat which is bigger and heavier. Klymit sleeping pad is super lightweight and can be deflated in a sec. During those night I was sleeping in Klymit 20 sleeping bag which was a bit overkill (I was sweating haha...)

I used Klymit Splash 25 to carry rope and gears - it's actually not designed for climbing; it's for canyoneering. So it is not easy to stuff the rope in and take it out (I still think it's much more than 25L...)

Thanks to Emily, I got a chance to top-tope some hard routes 11a/b, 12a and even 13a. I've only climbed for almost a year now (onsight level- easy 10s) so those are really hard for me! (Emily: grab the right hand-hold there! Me: It's not a hold for me...) 
It was really inspiring to see all the good climbers here projecting 12s or 13s. 

My attempt of 13a... only did a few moves and gave up

After 4 days of being dirt-bag, we were tired and sore like old ladies. So we decided to check out the Craters Of The Moon National Monument & Preserve.

It's a place looks like the moon surface, lots of lava, very bare. It was also much hotter than the Fins. Pets are not allowed at most of the trails so we didn't hike much or stay long.

Those caves are still worth checking out if you have a headlamp or flashlight. They are not big but they let you taste a bit sense of adventure.

In this trip most of the time we were just chilling and enjoying the nature. Watching the sunset and the sky became blue and pink before it got dark. I only wish I could live that like everyday.

Nevada - Lake Tahoe and Virginia City

2018 the end of February I went to Lake Tahoe few days for snowboarding. I couchsurfed at Carson City in Nevada and got a chance to check out the old miner town, Virginia City.

Lake Tahoe

The first day I went to Northstar ski resort. This season didn't get much snow so the condition was alright. I was surprised to see many families during weekday though.

At the next day, I went to Kirkwood and it was snowing all day. I didn't bring my camera just fully enjoyed the powder. Going down the mountain with snow chain on my tires was a nightmare. It took me double amount of time to get back...

The third day I went to Heavenly. Got there a bit late and joined the tourist crowd. The lift lines were insane. I didn't have much patience only took few runs and went back to Carson City. My couchsurfing host offering me showing around.

Virginia City is 20 min away from Carson City. Prostitution is still legal there. My couchsurfing host's roommate had a book about the history of prostitution in Virginia City. It reminded me the HBO series I got really addicted to, Westworld. I don't really watch TV shows and usually don't have patience to keep watching it. But the Westworld, the story is so good. 

It will be more touristic and vivid in summer time. Winter is just cold and dismal.

Old mining site

The old bar in Virginia City.

Wild horses around Virginia City.

Didn't plan on visiting this old mining town but it ended up the most interesting thing to see in this trip. Thanks for couchsurfing, I always had a blast with the hosts and learned things from them.

Escalante

This is my second time visiting Escalante, Utah. Last time I checked out this place by myself in July, 2017 and got lost in the desert... I was lucky to find the way back to my car and didn't need any rescue. Here is my instagram story.

I also smashed my camera at the last trip (because of my stupidity.) In the past few months, I've tried to save money and get a new (it's actually used) NIKON D610 - my first full-frame camera. I'm also stoked to get a new lens works on full-frame DSLR (oh god why is it so expensive?) I contacted the park ranger I met last time and headed down to Escalante before Donald Trump destroys this place.

Swing by Bryce National Park. I had been here 3 years ago so I didn't stay long. Plus I had incredible pain from my period that day I was seriously dying in my car...

The park ranger Mike took me to some non-touristic spots with his 4WD (my Honda Civic wouldn't make it.) Thanks his guide and knowledge, I was able to explore this amazing place SAFELY!

Please don't doodle on the rock... it's illegal and you'll get a ticket!

It was pretty cold in December. But like any other park in Utah, it didn't get snow this year... It's usually covered by couple feet of snow in winter - which means you can go backcountry skiing!

The next day morning we had a nice breakfast in this (only?) restaurant/trading post in Boulder. 

Ohhhhhh I love cats! This cat looks like my cat, piupiu. He audaciously walked up to my shoulder when I petted him. 

Then we went hiking at Harris Wash heading to Cosmic Eye (or Cosmic Ashtray.)

There's no obvious trail. GPS is recommended. I can't remember how I got there. I don't suggest venturing by yourself if you have no experience hiking in desert. 

Cosmic eye

It's pretty sad that Donald Tump wants to exploit this place for coal mining and such. Patagonia filed a lawsuit against his action. To see more details, visit Patagonia site here.

Thanksgiving climbing trip

Since last time the climbing trip to Wyoming with the climbing buddies from Boulder, we met again in Moab! This was not the first time I went to Moab - 2 years ago I had a road trip with friends and scoped around the National Parks there (tourist mode).

2015 Aug

Few months ago I went climbing (mostly slab) with my friend for my birthday. 

2017 Sep

This time we were planning to climb Castleton Tower in Castle Valley, Utah. I've never done trad climb, neither crack climb. My friend Ryan would be the one on lead and Alex and I would just top-roping. I was pretty excited but also nervous - the whole climb is 4 pitches more than 400'!

The route we climbed was North Chimney 5.9 (I didn't know the route until I got there. Ryan told me we were going to climb Kor-Ingalls 5.9+. 

We were debating if we wanted to hike in at night and sleep at the base of the tower because it was a very popular climbing spot. The climbers who just came down from the tower convinced us to have a good sleep at the trailhead since the trail was not easy to find. 

We woke up at 5 hiking in dark and planned to start the climb when the first light appears. 

Dawn, ready for the climb.

We were the first group arriving the tower even though I was out of breath dragging the speed. (The trail was quite steep.) There was another group of two young guys running up (Connor and Jonny) going to climb the same route, and a family from Jackson Holes who didn't end up climbing because of the long wait. 

The first part you can either go on a big boulder or hand jam at the right side of the crack. I was trying to jam myself up since it would be a far reach on big boulder. But I couldn't. After two attempt, Connor suggested me to go on big boulder and he even pushed me up. Hahaha it was a little bit aid here.

After the first pitch 130' 5.9 I was very exhausted and my arms were pumped. I thought I couldn't make it to the top. Ryan asked if I wanted to keep going or lower down. I decided to give second pitch a try - off-width climbing. It was lots of struggle and swear.

Calcite is a bitch. It really is.
No one likes it. It's slippery as hell. It's against the rule and our hope - enough friction.

The start of third pitch required hand-jam - I just couldn't pull myself up. I was so frustrated and both my friends were out of my sight. I tried again and slipped. Saw blood on the rock and realized my finger was cut. Wrapped it, told myself to calm down and figured the other way to climb up. There was one part that you would step from one side of the chimney to the other side - if you look down, you would see how high you've climbed. I didn't. I think I would just freak out.

The final pitch was a piece of cake compared to the previous pitches.

Can't believe I made it to the top!! Even it was only top-roping!

400' drop! Woooohooooo!!

We were chilling at the top enjoying our success and rest for a while.

Rappel down was so scary but also fun. It was 2 rappel with two ropes. We passed by English climbers who were climbing 5.11 route. It looked really difficult and terrifying.

I'm not gonna lie I was so scared the whole climb. It was not easy for me even though it was only 5.9 and I had previously led 5.10 outdoor (indoor climbing 5.11). My body was sore for 2 days and my calves were all bruises. 

After the climb, we headed to Joe's Valley.

Outdoor boulder is not my cup of tea because I was too scared to fall. I also didn't have enough strength after climbing that tower. I mainly took photos that day.

Give your climbing shoes some love <3

It was pretty cold in the morning. After trying one boulder problem, my hands were freezing.

We met some climbers from Colorado. They all wanted to do the same problem V6 so it became a crashpad party.

People kept trying alternatively. Ryan was the first and only one who finished the problem.

I did try but I couldn't do any move hahaha.... (My level was about V4 indoor boulder.)

My friends moved to other spots trying V4-V6 problems.

At night, we made fire at the campground. They read stories and I fell asleep. This was probably my favorite time of a day.

The next day was cloudy and made me feel even colder. They wanted to keep bouldering. I said goodbye to them and headed to Colorado. Can't do any upper body workout but I still can snowboard!

How to choose outdoor products?

As a product designer who loves outdoor activities, I'm more critical when it comes to select products. I usually buy a cheap used product when I just got into a new outdoor activity. (I'm always very broke and can't really afford outdoor products.) Then realized I got a really shitty one. After I got addicted to that activity, I usually dumped money to the second purchase. Luckily I got pro deal which has saved me tons of money. I'm definitely not the pro-level in any outdoor activity yet; can only say pro-consumer at best. This guide is for very beginner - who has no idea how to start.

BACKPACKS

It really depends on how fast you hike and how much stuff you're gonna bring. In summer, I would only bring a hydration pack with 2L water bladder and some energy bars for any hike under 8 miles. In winter, I would usually bring 25L so I can put my layers, gloves, or bennies. Regardless the activity, the first thing I care about backpack design is water bladder compatible. I've hiked with some friends still bring water bottle in their backpacks and have to take it out every time... Or some girls bring very cute backpack that has little ergonomic design. 

Here are some brands I suggest:
Hydration packs: camelbak, Salomon
Day packs: REI (The range is too huge. Go to the store and try it out!)
Backpacking packs: Thule (NASA level engineered. Pretty expensive but worth it.)

Here's an article explaining how you choose a pack you need in details. I think it's for people have hiked quite a bit and become nitpicking about functionality and usability. Like I personally prefer hydration pocket separate from main compartment because it can leak and make everything wet. (It has leaked to my NIKON camera.....) 

HIKING BOOTS

Scarpa R-EVOLUTION GTX WOMEN'S

I didn't really have hiking boots when I was living around LA - the trails there were mostly pretty mild or well-paved. I felt the importance of hiking boots when it comes to rocky terrain. They protect my toes from rocks and higher-top supports my ankles (but not prevent you from spraining your ankles!) The reason why I suggest wear more rigid, higher-top boots for backpacking because the weight of the pack will make you unstable. I would bring two hiking poles with me to make my life easier. (I usually don't use poles for day hike since I like to go faster.) However, rigid high-top boots will restrict your movement. It will slow you down. So a low-cut trail running shoes or hiking boots are better choices when it comes to short and easy hike.

Here are some brands I suggest:
Trail running shoes: La Sportiva
Mid-cut hiking boots: Oboz
High-cut hiking boots: Scarpa 

If you want to know more how to pack for a backpacking trip, check this article here. It describes what you should prepare in details and have some good suggestions.

Climbing shoes

I'm big fan of La Sportiva. My current shoes are Miura and I've tried Genius (pretty aggressive downturn, the rubber sole is slightly thinner and softer so you get better feel) and Katana (most of my friends wear Katana. It's great for bouldering and climbing.) When you try out climbing shoes, they should be tighter than your street shoes, like your second skin, but not too tight to make you painful. (Well I still need to take off my shoes after every climb. They are never comfortable enough for me to walk.) Try to do a heel hook and see if your shoes come off. 

Climbing Gears

Sports climbing - the bolts are located on the rock and all you need to do is placing quickdraws on the bolts and loop the rope at the other side of quickdraws, you need a harness, belay device (ATC / grigri ), helmet (protect you from falling rock), rope (length depends on how long the pitch is. I got 70m 9.6 rope), personal anchor system / sling (hold you at the anchors) , quickdraws and carabiners.

Here are some brands I suggest:
Black Diamond : I have their rope and quickdraws
Petzl : I have ELIA helmet (the line is softer the shape is more feminine) and LUNA harness. 
Mammut : My friend has 9.5 Infinity Classic - their rope has different weaving technology than BD. It feels smoother. 

Crash Pad

I had a BD Drop Zone crash pad. Tbh the reason I bought BD because I can get discount there and pick it up on the way to climbing gym. I chose this taco style crash pad because I don't like the gap between, but it's harder to fold. Crash pad is also a perfect mattress for camping - it makes me like outdoor boulder a lil bit more. 

If you're looking for general outdoor gears, you can check out REI store or backcountry.com

Teton and Glacier

In mid September, my friend came from Chicago and I went hiking to Static Peak at Grand Teton National Park. We got there after snowing. Camping that night was pretty cold and scary - animal sounds loomed in the dark. We woke up before sunrise ready for this more than 17 miles hike.

Morning was pretty foggy. The whole hike was kinda mellow even with some snow. The trails in national parks are usually pretty well-maintained.  

The elevation kicked my friend's ass since he came straight from sea level. I've lived at Park City for a while so didn't feel too bad.

My friend had minor headache around the peak.

At the end of the day we were both exhausted. This was my second time at Grand Teton National Park and I couldn't stop looking at those intensely sharp peaks. 

We camped at a free site outside of the park that night (Link.) I really like the campsite because I could see the whole series of Grand Teton peaks from there. 

Next day my friend wanted to check out the Old Faith (I already went to Yellowstone in July.)

Tourists are more than wildlife which is the reason I don't like to go to Yellowstone that much...

After two weeks, I went to Glacier National Park where I've been thinking going for a while. It's more than 10 hrs drive so I've been hesitant. (I love traveling but I hate driving.) 

It was snowing when I got there. I realized it was already too late and the ranger was not in service anymore. 

While waiting the snow dying down, I was reading book in my car and fell asleep... The sun came out around 1pm and I wrapped myself and started to hike. Met few people hiking down, saw snowflakes sparkling in the air and clouds around the mountains gradually cleared out.

Finally reached Grinnell Glacier

I actually enjoy hiking by myself on the mountains and think things through. No phone, no talk, no distraction. It really allows me to rationally analyze without interference. As I grow older, I realize the quality of life and my happiness depend on daily decisions: what's important in my life, what matters at this moment, what I really care, what and who I love. Others don't matter. You gotta prioritize; you gotta choose; or you'll lose everything. Disorganized life leads you nowhere.

This trip I was sleeping at the backseat of my car for two nights and felt miserable when I woke up. Cold can food was the worst thing ever! I gotta be smarter about my meal preparation while keeping under super low budget.

City of Rocks

I've heard lots of good things about climbing at City of Rocks National Reserve in South Idaho - well-erode granite provides some good holds. I'm still a beginner in outdoor climbing. Just purchased my own set of gear and went out climbing. My friend and I were about the same level so we would take turn lead climb. (We both had no experience in lead climbing before, not even indoor.) Before this trip, my level was 5.9- lead climb. 

Breadloaves

The first one we did is Built for Comfort   5.9  Sport, 1 pitch, 80' at Breadloaves. The second one we did is Nipples and Clits   5.10a PG13   Sport, 1 pitch, 50'. My friend led both. He didn't finish the 5.10a one so I went up finish it. 

Scream cheese

The third one we did is a pretty well-known scary climb, Scream Cheese   5.9    Sport, 1 pitch, 70'. It was scary because the slab at the top. The first bolt is at the edge of the base so you already feel the height (prob 40’) from the beginning. The wind was blowing when I climbed which made everything more scary. The handholds were actually not bad until the 4th bolt even though there was runout between 3 and 4. Then my happiness disappeared after that - no handholds at all. I was there 10 min or more going left and right trying to find a hole. Still nothing. Out of desperation, I place my right hand on a shallow crimp, left hand on the surface, slowly pull myself up and my feet incrementally moved up. I was hoping there would be other handholds after that part. Nope. So I kept moving up right and realized the bolt was at my left side. Without knowing the fact that anchors were just few feet above me, I was trying to traverse to clip the bolt (don’t do that on the slab, bad idea.) Then I slipped (and screamed)! My finger was ripped off and bled. Got some minor scratch on my right arm (fall on slab is never fun). Then it rained on me… 
My partner lowered me down. Rested for a while, looked at the rock again and found out the location of the anchors. I was so mentally exhausted and wanted him to go up finish the route. He insisted me to go up again complete this project. I sincerely didn’t want to face that fear again. But I wrapped my bleeding finger and went up again after it dried out. It was still hella scary. This time I skipped the last bolt, just went straight up to the anchors. THANKS GOD I did it!!
My partner top-ropping climbed up and said he would never lead climb that it was the scariest climb ever! I agree it took a lot of mental strength. I did it but I do not want to do that again.
 

Camping in the middle of nowhere (outside of national reserve - free)

Peanut butter is always my best friend when I travel, snowboard, or climb. (I'm not the one who put toast on the top of my car...)

Scoping climbing area, Bad seed - Eviction.

At the next day, we were both mentally tired - Scream Cheese took a huge toll on us. We only did one 5.9 which is not on the Mountain Project. (We did find one 5.10a and 5.9+ but didn't want to do it.) I led this one. The handholds were quite good until the last bolt. I was not the only one struggling. My friend couldn't figure it out, and the next climber was stuck there too.

City of Rocks is very stunning. It's full with interesting formation. It's definitely worth going regardless climbing or not.